Ask Mr. Architect Archives

ROOTING FOR FRUIT
Q: I am looking for some ideas on how to build a fruit cellar ? There is
not enough room in our basement to segregate one off, so it has to be an
additional structure.

A: We found an interesting source (dating back to the early 1900's) with photographs and diagrams. Although described as "root cellars", they indicate storage of fruits as well. There is also mention of an above ground structure of "thick masonry walls."

lewiston.lib.ut.us/Lewiston%20History/WinterStorageVeg.html

RENOVATION: LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP
Q: I had the opportunity of finally looking at a three story house I had had my
eye on for a long time. AHHHHH! It needs so much work! The house is on the
small side - three rooms on each floor - my guess is approximately 400sq.
feet per floor. The house also needs a heating system installed. Since time
is of the essence can you give some very general figures for renovation. We
would make it a one or two family.

A: Construction cost estimating is tricky, especially so for renovation since
it can hold "surprises" once the work begins. Remember, renovation cost is largely in what you find out during demolition. Existing drawings, while helpful, may not be accurate or tell the whole story of what needs to be renovated. You might want to at least consult a building inspector before putting your money down!

Helpful book on renovation: "Home Renovation" by Francis D.K. Ching and Dale E. Miller, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. publisher.

A KIND OF BIRD HOUSE
Q: I'm studying various residential home exterior design options. During my research, a French Manor home was described as: " the manors are rectangular and symmetrical with a wing on each side. The wings have dovecote roofs, while the main house has a Mansard roof with dormers." What are dovecote roofs? Along with the dovecote roof definition, I would appreciate a picture (WEB site url address) of what a dovecote roof looks like. Thanks in advance.

A: Dovecoat is defned as a structure for housing domestic birds, particularly pigeons. The link below will show you a picture of an adapted dovecoat design.
store.yahoo.com/midnightpassinc/devbir.html
Visit the genealogy site below and scroll down to "Teuber" for an interesting description of dovecoat origins.
www.ulster.net/~karlwick/ancestry.html

CUSTOMER RESPONSE (Genuine e-mail):
Thanks for the information. Your advice led me to some Web links and I found the perfect picture. See attached. Once again, Thanks.

HANDICAP ACCESS
We receive many inquiries regarding access. Here is some basic contact information that should be helpful in your project(s):
General ADA queries may be addressed to technical assistance operators at 800 872-2253 in Washington, DC. Specific, regional information (throughout the U.S.) can be found at the ADA Information Center 800-949-4232. Also, call the Access Board in Washington, DC at 800 872 2253 and press G8 for list of publications.

LOFTY THOUGHTS
Q: My wife & I are considering buying a loft space that is a 1200 sq. ft. duplex with approximately 495 sq. ft. on the upper level and 705 on the main level. Do you believe this space can be designed to comfortably accomodate a family of four ? We would like to have 3 bedrooms. Can you recommend any publications that are helpful in designing & renovating loft space?

A: If you go to Fine Homebuilding Magazine and search on "lofts" you will see a number of loft remodeling articles from back issues (have to order specific issues or go to your local library).

As to available square footage, this depends on the imaginative use of space -- lofts present exciting possibilities. We wouldn't make a pronouncement without knowing a lot more about the particular space and your needs but you could find "rule of thumb" room sizes "typical bathroom," etc., from publications such as "Architectural Graphic Standards", "Time Saver Standards for Interior Design" or many other books on home design. This would enable you to "rough out" your living patterns and the flow of spaces prior to engaging a licensed architect.

There are many questions about available light, skylights, views, roof insulation (loft spaces can really heat up if the roof is not properly insulated), leaks, building and fire code compliance, acoustical isolation (from neighbors), etc., just to name a few, that the potential buyer should be concerned with as well.

"PSYCHO" ARCHITECTURE
Q: Hello, I'm interested in creating a 1"-1' scale model of a typical 'California Gingerbread' victorian house. I have all the info I need on the exterior, but am having more trouble than I thought finding floor plans. If I'm going to undertake this, I'd like to make it as complete and accurate as I can.

The specific house plan I'm looking for is the one that was used for the 1960 film "Psycho". I appreciate the ramifications of copyrighted designs, but my understanding is that this is a very common design used extensively through northern California.

Between several of the films, I can get general ideas of the main hallway, the location of the kitchen, the stairs down into the cellar (and infamous fruit cellar), the main front left bedroom and to a lesser extent, a second bedroom on the right rear 2nd floor and the attic (at the top of the tower). Can you help with this? I'd be awfully grateful.

A: Your question is unique to be sure.

You may be able to contact the movie studio for floor plans, set design archives and info on the "Psycho" house in particular and/or check books on Hitchcock for additional bibliographical resources. Also, there are probably Victorian plan books in your library and at California chapters of the American Institute of Architects (AIA).

There are online sources for Victorian plans. They are, however, for modern use so may well be more of an adaptation than historically accurate. In a way, it is more interesting that you have used the movie itself as the source, in which case your conjectures and imagination as a movie buff are perhaps just as appropriate.

CUSTOMER RESPONSE:
"I really very much appreciate that you took your valuable time to answer my question. I have been checking some of the sources you mention, others I will indeed follow up. I think what you're doing is absolutely wonderful, and if you wouldn't mind I'd like to keep you in mind to send you a picture or two of the completed project. It reaffirms my faith in my fellow man to see someone share so selflessly."

MY (SCHOOL) SCIENCE PROJECT IS DUE TOMORROW!
Q: Hello, I am working on a science project and I have to research on how buildings are designed and constructed to withstand swaying back and forth without crunbling and what materials should and shouldn't be used in building them. I would really like to hear an answer but I'm not sure if this is your department. Thank you.

A: We can't think of a better place to start than with the book called "Why Buildings Stand Up" by Mario Salvadori. It's likely you'll find a copy in your local library.

Q: Hello, It's me again...thankyou for the info you gave me...I was wondering if you could just send me some actual information that I could use right away because the project is due tomarrow and I can't go to the library...I would really appreciate this :) I understand if you can't do this...Thanxs

A: Well, you certainly are down to the wire...but one way to learn more about building structures is to study them in extreme situations...earthquakes: quake.wr.usgs.gov/QUAKES/FactSheets/SaferStructures/
When you get to this site read the front page then go to "Hazards and Preparedness", scroll to bottom for "More Links" and then see various entries on building safer structures/buildings.

(To further your own knowledge, we still recommend reading Salvadori's book on your own time).

P.S. When we get requests for info on school projects we try to deliver useful information. But a research project requires work and thinking on the student's part, so we also try not to give all the answers!

Good luck on your project, it's a fascinating subject!

SEARCHING FOR A STYLE
Q: Hello Mr. Architect,
I'm so glad to have found you, and possibly some assistance on my quest. I am searching for house style that combines the look of a bungalow, with roof height that would allow liberal head clearance/future room(s). I have designed a floor plan on home design software, but cannot create an acceptable facade style. My finances are limited. I'd like to have as near complete a rendition as possible before attempting to have plans drawn. Is there a name for this style? Could you recommend a resource? I've been searching the web for hours, and hours, and hours.....
From the rural South,
Thanxxxxx

A: Your mention of "liberal head clearance/future rooms" and your difficulties with creating a facade prompt me to realize that you may have done most of your thinking in two dimensions, i.e. floor plans. It's essential to also think three dimensionally in architectural design:

Because you are creating three dimensional space you must be thinking in two dimensions (floor plans) and three dimensions (floor levels, clearances) simultaneously. In this case, there is no "section" yet. A drawing in section "slices" through the structure vertically the way cutting a cake reveals the stacking of layers (i.e. floors and levels). Please note that this integrated approach comprises only some of the fundamentals of architectural thought and design.

There are books in the library for styles of Southern architecture, residential architecture, etc. Even the famous photographs on the rural South by Walker Evans are a potential design source.

I believe you will need a qualified architect to help understand your goals within the context of building codes and to integrate the "parts" you will have gathered. It's more important that the house reflect your needs than represent a set style. Ideally, you can also achieve a design that is sympathetic to the landscape and traditions of your region.

Although you have spent many hours on the web (and I'm glad you have found us!), it may be time to put the software aside, take out a #2 pencil and put some home design dreams in writing, on paper, as a fresh beginning.

CUSTOMER RESPONSE:
What a fabulous service you offer! Truly a fine use of the Net.

HOT & COOL IN ARIZONA
Q: Hi! My husband and I have a three bedroom, 1800 sf ranch home on a deep lot. I would like to raise the ceilings and let in more natural light, plus open the floor plan for more flow among the kitchen, dining and living areas. We have a concrete covered patio across the back and would like to enclose it and add it to our living area. We live in Arizona, and need to keep the house as cool as possible at the same time.

A: The difficulties in enclosing a high space in a hot climate are many. For one, a high space will trap hot air during the day. In a milder climate, the rising hot air would push down the cooler air, but in Arizona, the heat will continue to build up. If you intend to raise the ceilings, provide a ridge top vent/skylight vent at the top to release the hot air and draw cool air in and up. Close the vent at dusk (or use a timer on the vent) to hold in warm air for cool evenings.

Opening the floor plan will aid in circulating air. It is circulation, not cold, which creates a comfortable feeling. But you do want to be careful of drafty spaces. Use walls that do not go to the ceiling to allow air to circulate above. While many people use ceiling fans, floor level vents (with screening) and the ceiling vents I mentioned above will better start a flow of air going.

The concrete patio can easily be adapted to a solar greenhouse for the growing of plants, or a passive solar cooling system (described below).

Allow the heat of the sun to build up in the mass of the concrete floor by using a thinset tile or stone floor covering and south facing windows. The heat will radiate out of the floor at night and keep you warm. Insulating the edges of that slab will increase this effect.

An additional option would be to use a trombe wall. A trombe wall is a heavy, massive wall, usually concrete and filled with water or sand that is placed slightly back from southern windows. The sunlight heats the wall by day and that heat radiates out at night. Heat builds up in the space between the wall and the windows and create a solar chimney. Usings the ceiling vents and floor vents, you have just created a truly
passive solar addition.

These techniques will reduce your air conditioning bills and save you money.

WALK-IN CLOSET
Q: We are in the process of knocking out the wall in our bedroom to the large walk-in closet to make the bedroom larger. We want to put a new walk-in closet in a covered porch just beyond our bedroom. Our present walk-in is 90" wide so there is plenty of room for hanging clothes down both sides. What you consider to be the minimum width for the new walk-in closet so we could also have hanging space down both sides and with room to walk in between?

A: According to real estate trends, people consider generous storage to be a top priority, almost to the point of it being a status symbol! A reasonable minimum (not necessarily ideal) width would be 76" (Minimum centered door width would be 30" with 36" aisle between clothes racks). Of course, there are a variety of possible configurations, the more space the merrier. Other considerations:

1. Place shelf heights comfortably according to the reach of the shortest person, allowing for the length of garments to be hung.

2. If there is outside exposure, consider proper insulation for the walls (assuming colder climate, in particular).

3. In order to better judge color, you may also consider letting in some indirect, natural light and/or daylight balanced lighting fixture as allowed by code.

4. Although it may add to cost, many people prefer cedar wood for closets since it is a pleasant smell and repels moths.

5. A new closet is also an opportunity for angled shoe racks set 10-12" off the floor.

Enjoy your new space(s)!

CUSTOMER RESPONSE:
What a wonderful and prompt response!! Thank you so much.
1) Since my husband is 6'4" and I'm 5'7" we will plan our shelving for potential future buyers--rather than for us.

2) Our present closet is 91" wide, so we will be able to have 84" in our new addition--thanx for your suggestion of a minimum being 76."

3) We will be able to put a narrow band of windows along the 'far' wall, allowing for the natural sunlight exposure.

4) This home in S. Calif. was built in 1963, so the insulation in the walls is non-existent. Each time we've replaced a wall, we've filled in with lots of insulation--and it makes such a difference. We were planning on lots of insulation on this enclosure, just like you
suggested.

5) Thanx for the suggestion regarding the cedar. Had not even considered that. Maybe I can talk my Scottish (AKA cheap) husband into that, too.

6) Also, thanx for suggestion regarding the shoe racks.

Blessings to you, Mr. Brin.

CUSTOMER RESPONSE:
WOW! I had no idea that I would receive such an indepth and on-the-mark answer so quickly. I can't thank you enough for the wonderful advice. You have been a tremendous help.

UNIVERSAL DESIGN
Q: What is "universal design?"

A: Simply stated, it is design for the full spectrum of age and disability. A sensitive architect/designer understands that the end-user is not forever young and able bodied. Rather than responding with a prosthetic add-on to a building or utilitarian object, the goal is to provide aesthetically pleasing ergonomic shapes, spaces and access that are fully integrated into and comfortably bridge our life cycles.

HOME ADDITION
Q: What is the most important thing to consider when planning an addition for a home?

A: Honestly asking if you really need it. Have you used your existing space efficiently? Is there hidden potential there? If the need for more room is obvious, for example, then a good way to start is with a written description of what this new space could be, how you envision it would ease and enhance the patterns of your daily life.

While every effort is made to provide accurate and timely information, Joseph G. Brin, AIA, Architect and "Ask Mr. Architect" are indemnified and held harmless for any loss(es) and/or damage(s) to person and/or property resulting from any and all information or linked web sites derived from the "Ask Mr. Architect" online site and service.

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